Saturday, January 12, 2008

A 'Night' On Ice

Well, we all survived a night out on our own in the Antarctic.  It was a great couple of days and I learned a lot!  Our awesome instructor, Susan, has been doing outdoor training for almost 20 years and her experience and expertise was incredible.  It was great to have her leading our group as she really knows how to bring a group of people together and work on their own.  The classroom training started with the basics you'd expect regarding hypothermia, dehydration, UV protection and what to do to protect yourselves.  Then we packed up our gear for our trip out on the ice.  We were dropped off a few miles from station along the road to the two airfields.  We hiked out about mile to some shelters for some more training on stoves, tents, snow shelters, food, and water.  For those that don't know, it takes water to make water!  If you just put snow in a pot by itself to melt, you will end up with burnt tasting water.  Dump in enough water to cover the bottom of the pot well.  :)



After the end of all of the instruction, we loaded up the sled with our personal gear and bags.  Susan pulled it to our campsite with a snowmobile and we walked after her.  Once we joined her she told us where to camp and what we would need out of the Comdex(?) box out at the site which had all of the tents, shovels, ice axes, sleds, flags, cooking gear, and saws.  Yes, saws!  More on that in a minute.  We loaded all the gear on sleds and dragged it out to our site.  The first thing that we setup was our Scott tent which is basically the same design that Scott used on his own tents a hundred years ago.  It is an interesting design that I won't go into.  One of the interesting things is for this tent is that it doesn't have a floor and has flaps around the edges that you pack under the snow to keep the wind out.



Once the Scott tent was up, we the started on the snow wall to help protect our tents from the wind.  You start out by selecting a place for your 'quarry'.  We cleared off the fresh snow and marked out a grid using one of the tent stake boxes as a template.  Then we used the saws to cut out the blocks of snow.  You start by sawing all the way down two adjoining sides of the grid and digging out the snow along the outside edge as deep as you want the blocks to be.  Then you saw all the way down the rows.  If you saw them one at a time, your blocks come out all different shapes.  Think of cutting a sheet cake.  Once you have some block that have the sides cut (you don't cut the bottom).  You take a square shovel and push it hard at the base of the block and push down on the shovel.  The blocks just pop off.  It works out really well.  You then just line up the blocks to build a wall three or four feet high long enough to shelter your tent from the wind.  If the blocks don't match up right, then you use the saw to make the ends match up.  After each row, you use the saw to create a level base for the next row.  You can encircle your tents if you want, but we just built one wall about 30 feet long east to west as most of the bad storms come from the south.  We then used our quarry as a pit for the kitchen with a wall as well.  It was actually a lot of fun since we had decent weather.  I imagine that had it been 5 below with a 20-30mph wind, it wouldn't have been so much fun.



While others worked on getting the stoves going and melting water, some of us talked about building a snow shelter.  There were a couple of recent Quinzhees nearby and we decided to make use of them instead.  See the link for details.  Having been built before the storm that just came through, the entrance was buried.  So we decided to dig our own.  After a hour or so, we were able to make it to the inside.  It was in pretty good shape but a little low, so we dug out the floor another 6-8 inches which made a huge difference.  One of the other campers and I decided to sleep in it 'overnight'.  I keep quoting words referencing 'night' because to me, 'night' never exists here since the sun never goes down this time of year.  Anyway, sleeping the Quinzhee was awesome!  It was incredibly warm inside and VERY quiet.  Zero noise from from wind or the other camper's tents.  I think that the only real downside is that if you need to get up in the middle of the 'night' to use the bathroom, you have to get fully dressed as you'd get too cold and wet sliding on snow to get out.  Once I post the pics, notice that we dug the hole down and then out.  This acts as a cold sump to draw the coldest air down into the hole.



It was a great time and we really lucked out to have decent weather.  I'll upload the pictures soon and possibly to another post later.  The Swedish icebreaker, Oden, is at the ice pier and there are rumors of penguins out at the point.  There is also a traditional rugby game between the US and New Zealand (Kiwi) base at 3pm.  The Kiwis have won for the past 50 years, but it should still be fun.



Thursday, January 10, 2008

End Of the First Week

It's been busy the first week.  I've met a LOT of people.  Ate too much food.  Probably gone out for more than the usual amount of beer, for me anyway.  All said, it has been a good time.  I miss being home with Layna and the girls, but I keep busy enough to not think about it too much.  I'll try to fill in the details and uniqueness of being down here throughout the next few weeks.  However, I need to go pack my stuff for Snow School (aka Happy Camper).  Everyone who will be leaving the station is required to complete this training.  We spend some time today inside for lectures and training.  Then we go out to somewhere a few miles from station and have to put the stuff to use in the field.  We will learn about building different kinds of snow shelters and learn how to setup a tent to withstand the harsh Antarctic environment.  Luckily the temperature is fairly good at about 30F and the wind has died down quite a bit.  I will try and take a bunch of pictures and post as soon as I get back (and take a hot shower).  Probably in about 36 hours or so.



Saturday, January 5, 2008

Finally a Good Sleep

I finally got a good sleep for the first time since I left Denver.  Not sure why, but it must be a combination of time change, anticipation, and homesickness.  I experienced the the strangest thing I have in a long time the first day I was here.  About 7pm, I met several people in the Coffee House for some drinks and relaxation.  The Coffee House is made up of two Quonset huts in the form of a 'T' with no windows and is fairly dark like a typical bar.  A Quonset hut is one of those military, half-circle bunkers made of corrugated steel.  Anyway, about 10pm or so, we thought is was getting late and we were tired.  So we opened up the door to go outside and...wham!...a blast of daylight.  It was just weird and messes with your internal clock.  The sun never gets overhead, it just circles around.  I knew this before I left, but you really have to experience it to understand the weird feeling you get sometimes about it.  Anyway, time for lunch.  I'll try and take some more pictures today.



Friday, January 4, 2008

Pictures!

Nothing too exciting, but here are my pictures starting with the flight to McMurdo.  I will try and note in the blog when I upload more.



http://picasaweb.google.com/uliv1x/McMurdoStationAntarcticaJan2008



McMurdo Station, Antarctica!

The weather was good yesterday so we left on schedule and did not 'boomerang'.  A 'boomerang' flight is one that gets to the 'point of no return', which is just over halfway, and the weather is not good enough to land.  The record is supposedly seven.  I feel sorry for the people on those trips because that means that they basically spent 35 hours over seven days on flights from Christchurch before they actually made it.  The C-17 flight down there was actually a lot better than most commercial flights as there what a lot more room for someone my size.  The seat wasn't as comfortable, but extra space more than made up for it.  We had to circle a few times before we could land because there were a few penguins on the runway.  By the time I got off the plane there was a helo flight coming and they rushed us to 'Ivan the Terra Bus'. It wasn't until we were on the bus back to the station that I found out about the penguins.  Unfortunately, I did not get to see them. :(  Some of the others got pictures, but not I.



When I heard stories about McMurdo in the office, most people described to be like a mining town and I think that description fits it well.  There is very little snow in the station and it is fairly windy.  I has been crazy since I got here and I haven't had any time to take many pictures.  As things settle down, I will take some pictures and upload them.  More to follow.  I have another orientation to go to. :)



Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Big Day Tomorrow

Tomorrow is my flight from Christchurch, NZ to McMurdo Station, Antarctica.  I need to get up at 5am to go to the airport to check in at 6am.  The flight is supposed to take about 5 hours and will be on a US Air Force C-17.  Supposedly they sometimes use the C-130 for this flight, but not much anymore.  This is a good thing as the flight on the C-130 is 8 hours and a lot more cramped.  Anyway, I need to get to bed to get my 5 hours of sleep before tomorrow.  I will try and do a post before the flight if I have time.



Tuesday, January 1, 2008

My Schedule For the Next Few Days

I have clothing issue tomorrow (3 Jan) at 1pm and then on Thursday (4 Jan) I have to be back at the airport at 6am.  I guess the flight usually leaves around 9 or 10am and is about 5 hours.  I'm sure that 5 hours on a military transport is going to make coach on a commercial airline seem like first class.  That should put me in McMurdo around 2-3pm.



A note on the time difference for easy conversion.  Currently there is a 20 hour time difference between MST and NZT.  So for an easy conversion from the time in my posts (NZT) to MST, add 4 hours and subtract a day: 4 Jan 2008 at 0600 NZT = 3 Jan 2008 at 1000.